Timelapse Calculator
Enter your desired clip length, frame rate, and shooting interval to find out exactly how long you need to shoot, how many frames you will capture, and how much storage space to prepare.
Recommended Intervals by Subject
Click any row to apply its recommended interval to the calculator above.
| Subject | Interval | Notes |
|---|---|---|
Understanding Timelapse Photography
The idea behind timelapse is simple. Instead of recording continuous video, your camera fires off individual photos at a set interval, and you stitch those frames together into a video later.
The result is a sped-up view of the world that you just can't get any other way. Clouds racing across the sky. Flowers blooming in seconds. A whole city pulsing with light as day turns to night. Some of the most compelling timelapses come from landscape scenes where the light, weather, or seasons shift over time.
How Intervals Affect the Result
Your shooting interval is the single biggest creative choice you will make. It controls how much real time passes between each frame, and that changes everything about the final video.
A short interval (1-3 seconds) captures rapid changes smoothly. Think traffic, crowds, busy street corners. A longer interval (30-120 seconds) suits slow processes like star movement or plant growth, where changes happen over hours.
Get it wrong and you will know immediately. Too short for a slow subject? Your timelapse looks like a still image with barely any motion. Too long for a fast subject? Jerky, disconnected frames.
The sweet spot always comes down to one question: how quickly is your subject actually changing?
Tips for Smooth Timelapses
Use manual exposure. This is the number one mistake beginners make. If you leave your camera on auto, the exposure shifts slightly between frames and you end up with annoying flicker in the final video. Lock your aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and white balance before you start.
The one exception? Sunrise and sunset timelapses, where you may need to gradually adjust exposure as the light changes. Photographers call this ramping.
Shoot in RAW. You will thank yourself later. RAW files give you so much more room to correct white balance, tweak exposure, and colour-grade your entire sequence consistently. Yes, it eats storage. That is what the storage estimates above are for.
Turn off autofocus. Focus once, nail it, then switch to manual. If autofocus hunts between frames, you will get unusable footage with the focus drifting all over the place.
Use a sturdy tripod. Any movement between frames shows up as shake in the final video. Weigh your tripod down if it is windy and do not touch the camera during the shoot. If you want actual camera motion in your timelapse, invest in a motorised slider or pan head built for this kind of work.
Essential Gear
You need three things: a camera with manual controls, a sturdy tripod, and an intervalometer. Most modern cameras have one built in. If yours does not, an external one is cheap and plugs right into your camera's remote release port.
For star timelapses, add a fast wide-angle lens and find somewhere with minimal light pollution.
And bring more storage than you think you need. Timelapse sequences run to hundreds or thousands of frames, and at 25MB+ per RAW file, that adds up fast. Carry a spare card. Make sure your battery is full, or better yet, use an external power source for longer sessions.